Product Description
High Performance Durable Touch Keypad digital door lock with Random Security Coding. Samsung's SHS-7020 has 3 access methods PIN, Card or Mechanical Key. The RF cards contain a Mifare ISO14443A chip operating at 13.56 MHz. UL-Listed Cylindrical Tubular Latch with 2-3/4 Standard Backset and Weather Resistant. Commercial or residential use.
* Automatic / Manual Locking Mode * Passage Mode * Material: Zinc, ACRIL, Polycarbonate * Non-Handed * UL-Listed Cylindrical Tubular Latch with 2-3/4" Standard Backset * Weather Resistant * Software: Audit Trail (5,000 Events) & PC Enrollment (Optional) * Finish Satin C * Backset 2-3/4" standard * Handing Universal * Dimensions: 3.38" x 8.74" x 2.71" * Weight: 6 lbs.
| List Price: | $649.99 |
| Price: | $454.99 |
| as of Tue, 05 Mar 2013 03:11:39 GMT ***Remember, deals price on this item for sale just for limited time*** | |
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #9061 in Consumer Electronics
- Brand: Samsung
- Model: SHS-7020
- Dimensions: 7.00 pounds
Features
- High Performance & Durable Touch Keypad with Random Security Coding
- Access Methods: PIN, Card or Mechanical Key
- Powered by 1.5V x 5 AA Alkaline Batteries (Option for Hard Wiring)
- User Capacity: 250 Slots for PINs or Cards (Mifare Card)
- Buzzer and LED Indicators
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
By Stanley R Sieler Jr
I just installed a Samsung SHS-7020 EZon lock, purchased from Amazon.
The name is misleading... DIFFICULTon would be more appropriate. I had provided the lock installation templates and information to my door vendor when I ordered my new front door ... so the door came with the correct holes for the lock. The installer, 20+ years of experience, said the lock template was unique, and that if I ever wanted to install a difference lock I'd be in trouble.
The lock installation was *very hard*, taking the installer (and helper) several hours ... and that's not counting any of the lock programming time. At one point near the end, the final (inside) handle wouldn't go on ... it turns out that the thickness of the door can drastically affect the placement of some parts (this required about a 50% disassembly and reassembly and some swearing to resolve).
There are some serious design flaws:
1. the coin cell backup battery cannot be installed without serious disassembly of the lock. That's a major design fail.
2. there is no (simple) ability to lock the door from the inside. Let me clarify that ... the lock is usually setup to always lock when the door is closed. That's probably what I'll want most of the time ... but not, say, during a party. Then, I'd like to leave the door unlocked (and closed most of the time). Ok, read enough of the (poorly written) manual, and you'll encounter "Passage Mode". This mode, requiring about 10 keystrokes to enable, leaves the door unlocked ... until *another* 10 (or so) keystrokes are enabled (and those keystrokes must either be entered from the outside, or while the door is open ... the only keypad is on the outside of the door!).
There *should* be a mode that says "hey, leave it unlocked until I press "wakeup *", or something similarly easy ... or, far far *far* better, a mode that says "hey, leave it unlocked until I press the "lock" button on the inside of the door". Yes, that would require adding a "lock" button on the inside of the door ...but I'll pay the extra buck for the added manufacturing cost!
3. The PC software is, well, very primitive. It fails to display information correctly on my Win XP system ... there's some chance that may be due to a video display configured with large DPI than most, but I'm not sure yet. (By "PC" software I mean that the software only runs on Windows, not a Macintosh or other kind of personal computer.)
4. The manual says that once I connect the USB cable from the PC to the lock, *all* programming information is lost / thrown away. (Presumably, this means *lock based* information, not the saved information in the (sigh) MS Access database on the PC).
(I haven't tried this yet, so I can't confirm this design flaw :)
5. The USB port for the lock is ON THE @#$%^ FRONT (OUTSIDE) OF THE LOCK! This sure looks like it means that there is essentially no security, because of item 4 above. AFAIK, an intruder could use a tiny PC, connect it to your door, and reset all the programming and get in. This would certainly seem to be an incredible security hole.
6. Did I mention that the USB port is on the outside of the door? Kind of makes it difficult to program the lock FROM THE SECURITY OF A LOCKED HOUSE, eh? I have to keep the door open (with the cable going from my PC on the kitchen counter , out the door, into the lock.
7. The PC software is very difficult to understand. I abandoned trying to use it the first time I tried it (haven't gone back to it yet).
8. The PC software has a bug, and the bug is DOCUMENTED in the manual ... sheesh, a sign of very very bad quality programming ...
when the PC software is run for the first time, an error message pops up. The manual documents that this will happen (it fails to add "please ignore the error", but that's what you have to do). *PROPERLY* written software doesn't do this. Properly written software either avoids triggering the error the first time its run, or it cleverly suppresses the error. I'd say that at the last resort, properly written software would pop-up a warning box saying "an error will appear in a moment...please click 'continue' ... it's a flaw with Microsoft Access' (or whatever is causing it) ... but I won't say that, because if the problem is in MS Access, then *DON'T USE IT*. The size of the database being maintained is trivially small, and a simple open-source in-memory database manager could handle it without having lots of MS software installed on the user's computer.
Back to the overall lock...
The lock comes with 3 physical keys, four key cards (near-field RF).
The lock also comes with an odd piece of metal that's bent into an "L" shape ... with nearly no documentation as to what it's for. Reading various manuals closely, it looks like it's probably a tool to help remove the inside handle. (On the page listing what's included, the tool doesn't show up in the main section ... below, there's a list of items you'll need, and there's a tiny reference to this tool as "(included) ... took multiple readings to find it :)
The manual refers to "Master" card, a "Manager" card, and a "User" card ... never defining the terms. Apparently, the owner can make any RF card either a Manager card or a User card. But, that begs the question: what is a Master card, and who has them?
The RF cards are of thin plastic, and lack either an ID number or an area in which a number or name could be written. This means that door users can get their cards confused with other door users' cards. (I taped a piece of paper with "Manager" and a card number onto my cards ... I shouldn't have to do that!)
Other than the above, I do like the lock. It looks nice, and seems to register the key presses accurately.
It's just that it could be a great lock instead of a good lock.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
By Evgueni Tchirkov
I bought this lock for a customer, so I had some doubts about it. I had to install it by myself: the installation was kinda tricky: one of the steps wasn't clearly explained in the manual... so it took few minutes more. but there were no problems, after all.
The lock looks and feels pretty solid and tough made, and it really is.
This model can be opened using a key, HID card, code or code + HID card. all the options work perfectly. I added cards of 3rd part manufacturer and they worked without any problem.
There is only one detail i would like to comment: the latch... The lock come with the standrd latch: like any other cheap door knob.... well, here we are talking about a relatively high security door lock which cost is about $600, so I think they should figure out something bit more stronger & secure... besides, the lock itself, looks much more "stronger", "oversized" for this simple latch...
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
By D. Hyre
I bought this lock after searching through many, many electronic locks, and found the combination of features most compelling on this Samsung / Ezon SHS-7020 lock. It just seems more thoroughly thought out than all the others: it has an always-unlocked "pass-thru" mode, it has a disassembly warning alarm, its numbers are invisible from the street and are protected from wear like physical buttons, it unlocks if there is a fire behind the door to let firemen in, it has many "slots" for different users (# or card), it has a solid metal body, it adds randomized digits to confuse prying eyes and spread wear and fingerprints, it can be powered (jump-started) from the outside by a 9v battery if the regular batteries fail, etc. It is quite a feeling to leave the house with just the car key and nothing else, or to pop over to the neighbors without grabbing a key. And I know the kids will never lose their keys! It was a ritual to pitch my old physical keys. Note the lock seems heavy and large, but not so when on a regular door.
The only thing I could fault it for is the instructions - they clearly are not making a push to take over the English and/or self-installed market. The directions are minimalist, and great help when installing a second one of these, but it takes a little more thought to get the first one in. The instructions author could learn a lot from building a bookshelf or filing cabinet from Home Depot or Ikea, e.g. life-size diagrams of the fasteners with a naming key.
If you buy this lock, and find that the front handle / lever is not going on as expected, check the tab at the back of the key cylinder: some units were shipped with that tab turned 90 degrees from where it should be, so that it was vertical when the handle was in the horizontal / rest position. This is incorrect, the tab should be horizontal, in line with the handle (and with the lock's internal pins), so that it does not interfere with the two small points inside the central shaft which are at top and bottom (at least in 2012 model). It is easy enough to pop the retaining clip on the back of the lock cylinder and rotate the tab 90 degrees and replace the clip, but nowhere does the manufacturer note this error in troubleshooting; I had to speak to the vendor for it. Once I made this fix, the handle slipped right on as easily as in the YouTube video showing full assembly, and now I'm enjoying the lock.
No comments:
Post a Comment